Case file: dog victim of dog attack

I recently received this email from a friend, in regards to her intact male Great Dane. The following is my response!

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I know you normally deal with very aggressive dogs but I have a question about the victims. For the last 6 months, B has become the target of aggression by many dogs. It got really bad about a month ago when a dog slipped its collar at the school while he was playing with some other dogs and singled him out of the group from 30 feet away and made a beeline for him, attacked him  and tried to kill him. I had to pull the dog off of him. B was not fighting back and actually was trying to move away to avoid being bitten but he tripped over some smaller dogs and fell and the attacking dog saw an opening and just clamped down on his neck. After I finally got the dog to let go of B they took it away and B was completely fine with everything. He wasn’t afraid and we went to the other side of the field and kept playing.

About two weeks ago, I was at the field again and he was playing with two dogs that he has played with before. One of them is a golden retriever who is about a year old. Everything was going fine until the retriever was being pet by its owner and it laid on its back to have its belly rubbed. Just then, B went over to it and started sniffing at its belly and the retriever went nuts and started attacking B. Once again, he did not fight back and he did not act afraid but just moved out the way to avoid getting bitten. We had to physically restrain the retriever to make it stop.

Other times there is growling or hair up from the other dogs and once again, B is totally indifferent to them. He just stands there or he walks away from them. His posture to me does not look aggressive or challenging but apparently to the other dogs it is. Sometimes as he walks away, the other dog will follow him and try to get a reaction from him and he just ignores them and plays with his toys. It’s weird.

It seems to me that for some reason, B is failing to communicate to the other dog that he is not a threat and I am concerned that I have done something wrong to make him like this. Is there anything I can do to help him learn how to communicate with aggressive dogs better? Also, other than avoiding all other dogs completely or getting B fixed, do I have any other options?

My response:

From what you’re describing, B is communicating exactly as he should to tell other dogs he’s not a threat. He’s got three big things working against him: his size, his youth, and the fact that he’s intact.
Any smaller dog is going to go on the aggressive-defensive if it feels like B might be threatening. Not if the other dog feels B is aggressive, but if they feel like they might get stepped on, for instance. Because B is big, this is pretty much every dog at the park. So, the first thing to do is to call him off any dog that’s in a vulnerable position: lying down (belly up or back up; doesn’t matter), getting mobbed by several dogs, being chased by several dogs, and a dog that is playing hard and B goes to see what they’re up to. (If he trots up to two dogs playing hard with his head up, he’s saying, “Are you guys playing or fighting? Do you need help?” Those dogs may turn on him for trying to “help” or even join in, because playing hard gets the blood going and fighting hard is only a half step away. If he butts in where he’s not wanted, their frustration at that may easily turn to aggression.)
Now, his youth is an obvious thing: he’ll outgrow that in another year or two. In the meantime, young dogs are more exuberant and bouncy than older dogs; combined with his size, his bounciness may provoke defensiveness in another dog who is worried about getting bounced on. Young dogs are notorious for not realizing their size and strength, so older dogs will tell them to back off preemptively.
Finally, him being intact will make him a target. This isn’t a “get him neutered now!” problem, but more of a “be aware of dogs running at him” problem. A dog that has a tendency toward aggression will target him. The best thing you can do when you see a dog running toward him is call him to you, step between him and the other dog, and when the other dog is close enough charge it yourself and try to kick it in the abdomen. Don’t worry; despite my best attempts, it’s impossible to kick a dog in the abdomen. When you try, though, they tune in and leap out of the way. At worst, they’ll attempt to get around you and attack again, and at best they’ll hesitate and decide what to do, giving you or an owner a chance to grab the dog.
The good news: B is helping you out. Because he’s willing to run away from them, he’ll be far more willing for you to step between them and take care of the problem. If he ever does get the confidence to say, “I’ll help Mom get them!” chase him off (either then, or as soon as the danger is over) so he learns that’s not acceptable. It will only make the dog fight much, MUCH worse. After everything is over, praise him like crazy for running away or staying behind you. This does two things: reinforces that you don’t want him fighting, and bringing his mood up so the whole experience doesn’t become traumatic. He’ll walk away going, “Sure, there was a scary bit, but then we had fun!” That’s what you want.
Finally, if he gets snapped at or told to back off and he does, praise him again. A few seconds of praise and playing with his toys is perfect; we want bouncy, happy energy coming from you for a moment, so he knows for sure he did it right. (I often tell my dogs how proud of them I am, and scratch all along their sides to produce the wiggliness I’m looking for.)
I have all these same issues with Cash, but they’ve mellowed out as he’s mellowed out and learned to ignore dogs in vulnerable positions (or at least come away when I call). The target thing is still there, because he’s intact, but mostly dogs are okay with him. Hang in there, and start calling him away!
Jenna
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More Summer Games

If you’re looking for something new and fun to teach your dog this summer, look no farther! I give you… the paddlin’ dog!

And if you can figure out how to actually do this, I’ll hire you  myself! (I love how he paddles.)

Speaking of the beach (okay, Tillman here is into a lot more than water, but allow me the seque) if you’re headed toward water and any of the following apply:

1. Your dog doesn’t swim well

2. They have a heavy undercoat (which will absorb water and drag them down unexpectedly – Akitas are especially at risk for this)

3. They don’t swim often and don’t know their own limits

or

4. You’re going to spend a lot of time with your dog in a lot of water

 

Then you might consider a fashionable doggy life vest! Lily, who is a world-champion sinker, sports her fashionable coat here while she is acting as furniture for her buddy, Jake.

 

Bully breeds are notorious for being world champion sinkers, on account of their great bone and muscle density and tiny, tiny paws. Terriers of most types have a similiar problem, not because of greater density but because of their oh-so-dainty paws. Without her life jacket, Lily will not even let water touch her belly. But WITH her life jacket, look at her go!

 

That’s her, splashing around (after her ball) WAY OUT THERE. If I were a little less modest, I show you her giving the ball back to me with me in thigh-deep water, and her little head just visible. It’s pretty cute. Granted, she occasionally gives me minor heart attacks by swimming into a wave, getting dunked, and then popping back to the surface… but the vest means that she for sure pops back to the surface! And if something ever goes really wrong, it has a handle so I can pick her up out of the water. But the way it straps high around the chest, and the placement of the padding ensures that even if something DOES go terribly wrong, she’ll float with the majority of her body and head out of water with no effort on her part. All she has to do is lift her nose a little!

Life vests aren’t terribly expensive (I got this one on sale at REI for about $25), and they are worth their weight in gold. Pick yours up today!

 

Got your life vest and doggie board and ready to go to the beach, but not sure where? Try Fort Funston up in San Fran, or Mitchell’s Cove down in Santa Cruz. Both are off-leash beaches (or at least have off-leash hours). But remember: Pick up after your dog! Humans (and children, which are like humans but smaller and with less sense) play on these beaches, too!

Jenna

Classes!

Occasionally, people ask me about classes. If I can remember, I’ll start putting them on the calendar here!

Classes are on a drop-in basis, and typically only for clients who have already had an assessment. If you’re interested in a specific class, but not private training, contact me and we’ll set up a short, cut-rate assessment so you can come to class and be up to speed with the terminology and what’s expected!

Everyone must have at least a short assessment, so they know the basics. I try to make sure these classes are as safe as possible!

Available classes take place in Los Gatos, by a schedule I send out a few months ahead of time. Typically the Dogs Downtown class takes places on either Saturday or Sunday morning, every other weekend. The other classes vary.

Dogs Downtown Classes:
$15 per household prepaid (non-refundable; you can pay via paypal or check), or $20 the day of. We practice understanding dog body language, on-leash greeting, confidence building, good manners, and walking through crowds and scary downtown things. This is also a good time to catch me if you have questions or problems have cropped up, but you don’t need a whole session.

Off Leash Recall (or “come”) Classes:
$25 per dog, space is limited. You will need to bring treats and a long rope (20 ft or more), and we’ll go through how to get your dog listening and tuned in under medium-stress situations, outdoors. It’s best if your dog is at the stage where they know what “come” means, but choose not to listen occasionally.

Dog Park Classes:
Space in dog park classes is limited for safety’s sake. Cost is $25 per dog. We meet outside the dog park, practice checking dogs for good body language, spotting problems, entering, working with our dogs so they listen even at the dog park, work on recall, and learn how to know when it’s safe to be there and when it’s time to leave.