Filed under: Uncategorized | Tags: dogs with disabilities, graduates, training in unusual conditions
I’ve talked before about Toby and Chaplin, the two English setters, and Toby who’s blind. Recently, we began to suspect that Toby is going deaf as well. I started using a leash cue (waggling it back and forth) as I say “step” to let him know that he needs to slow and look around for a step up and down, in the hopes that by the time he goes totally deaf and can’t hear me say “step” anymore, he’ll have recognized that waggle.
Chaplin and Toby are two of my model students, and though it pains me to say it, they don’t need me anymore! I contacted their owners and told them that Chaplin’s dog aggression is gone, neither are bolting from the car when they get out or bouncing around the inside when we drive (a serious driving risk; now Chaplin watches calmly out the window and Toby lays down for a nap!), they aren’t pulling on their leashes or peeing on things, Chaplin sits automatically when we stop and Toby sits when I cue him. They are model citizens! I suggested they switch to a dog walker, Bill Brobst of Go Lucky Paws, so we all got together and went over the last rules and tips and I introduced Bill to Chaplin and Toby.
That was last week; yesterday Bill and I got together for one final check in, and the boys are all doing great together! Bill has stuck to the rules I laid out (I knew he would; one of the reasons he’s my go-to guy!), the dogs are listening, and everything is great. I’ll miss my boys, but I know they’re in good hands!
J
Filed under: Uncategorized | Tags: cash, training, training in unusual conditions, walking
Cash has this tendency to get excited when he sees me get his leash out. Now, this wouldn’t be so bad because he’s good at controlling himself even when he’s excited, but he whines.
I mean, whines like you wouldn’t believe. It’s this engine-breaking sort of noise that drives me INSANE, and it continues from the instant he sees the leash until we get ten feet down the road.
Cash is a king shepherd. The breed came from interbreeding German shepherds, malamutes, and great Pyrenees into a whole new breed, recognized by the American Rare Breed Association. Of those breeds, the German shepherd is prominent — and do you know one of the things they’re known for? Oh, yeah. Vocalizing.
I’m noise sensitive. I don’t do well with whining. Or barking. Or shrieking. Or anything else like that, really. So Cash’s hysterical whining when we walk? I don’t do so well with it.
The usual fix for this sort of whining is to wait to move until the dog goes quiet. There are, however, a few problems with this if you’re me (or like me):
1. It takes the dog so long to go quiet that I’ve failed in non-reacting because it got on my nerves.
2. It takes the dog so long to go quiet that I had to leave because I was going to be late for everything else, so we either skipped the walk entirely or I left before he went quiet.
3. Every time I move when he does go quiet, he starts whining instantly and… see above.
I was talking to Quin about all this, because the whining drives her insane, too, and she started offering suggestions.
Q: What about scolding him?
J: No good. It’ll increase the anxiety and he’ll whine more.
Q: Oh. I guess the same goes for popping the leash or pushing him back?
J: Yeah.
And then Quin came up with a brilliant idea. It was this: get Cash’s leash out. Put it on him. Walk back into the house and continue doing whatever I was doing before. When he settles down, take it off him.
This was brilliant. More than that, it started working that very night! I’d been trying to fix this problem for months with no success, and this was so smart and so simple that I wondered that I hadn’t thought of it before. Leash him when I’m wandering around, so he learns to not get so excited at getting leashed, that very likely nothing fun is going to happen. Leash him ten minutes before I leave and continue about my business, so he has time to settle down before I pick up his leash and we go for a walk — rewarding the quiet behavior without driving me crazy or making me late.
It’s brilliant! And it’s worked! Now I know how my clients feel when I walk in, suggest something, and it works. So simple, and yet so clever!
J
Filed under: Uncategorized | Tags: dogs with disabilities, training, training in unusual conditions
A while back I wrote about playing seeing eye dog for a… well, a dog. Toby isn’t thrilled with the idea of learning new tricks at his age; he keeps trying to convince me he’s far older than ten! But despite his disinclination, he’s learning.
One thing that’s helped in working with a blind dog is wearing bells on my hip. I took several bells and tied them to a carabiner, and whenever I go to work with him I clip them onto my belt loop. It lets him know where I’m at, when I’ve stopped, and if he’s about to run into me! I didn’t realize how much it was helping until I forgot it one day, and he was all over the place.
He’s also figured out how snug his collar should be, rather than simply pulling on me all the time. He now walks so that it’s loose but still snug enough that he can tell my direction, should I change direction. He’s figured out that when it pulls to one side or the other he should walk in that direction, and when it stops and pulls up he should stop and sit down.
Best of all, he’s learned two really helpful commands: “step and “get in the car.” He knows that if I say “step” the next step will be either up or down, and he’s learning to take his time about figure out which it is! If I say, “Let’s get in the car,” he’ll go where I lead him (toward the car), then check it out with his head until he knows just how high it is. He’s hesitant about jumping in (I would be too!), but he’ll put his front feet up so I can lift the back end easier.
Yesterday we went on a walk that included a LONG flight of stairs. There must have been fifty of them! For the first third, when he realized it was a flight, he tried to charge down. For the last two thirds, he stopped and listened to me every step of the way, taking one at a time and waiting for my cue. It was fabulous!
In short, being a seeing eye human isn’t half bad, and Toby’s doing fantastic. Hooray for collars, leashes, and bells!
Jenna
Filed under: Uncategorized | Tags: dogs with disabilities, training, training in unusual conditions
I’m working with a dog right now who’s ten years old, and blind. Now, the only thing I need to do with this dog is leash training, which is nice. He’s a English setter, and boy can he pull! Being blind hasn’t deterred him from lunging to the end of his leash and heaving on whoever is holding it!
My job is to help him learn to walk nicely on his leash. Now, I don’t want to use anything that will deter him from walking in general; he’s already being quite courageous by wanting to go out, still, and I don’t want to lessen that. So no slip chains or prong collars to stop him lunging, despite the fact that he’s nearly pulled me off my feet — no mean feat (pun intended!)!
I also need to find a way to tell him where to be, even though he can’t see me. In this case, whether he walks ahead or beside/behind doesn’t matter so much for psychological reasons, as it matters for safety reasons: I can’t guide him around objects if he’s ahead of me!
To solve the problem of letting him know where I am, I’ve taken to wearing bells on my hip. I’ve only worked with this dog for two days, so time will tell if it works, but the theory behind it is that he’ll hear when I’m walking, when I’m stopping, where I am, and how fast I’m going. (I can tell the same thing by the sound of a dog’s tags when it’s coming up behind me; he can certainly learn it, too!)
I’ve also started keeping his leash snug. Normally the goal with a dog is to walk with a very loose leash, but in this case if I keep a small amount of pressure on the collar, then he knows where I am. If the pressure increases either forward or back, he knows he’s gone out of line. This also means I can guide him with his collar to either side, if I need him to dodge something.
To get some control without stressing him out, I got myself a martingale collar. To him, it’ll feel like his normal flat collar (the collar you put a dog’s ID tags on), but I can bring it up behind his ears, keep it snug enough to A) keep it there and B) let him know where I’m at, and then I can control his head instead of trying to control his very powerful shoulders.
The first day I took him out, I had neither bells nor martingale. The second day it was like a changed dog! I’m hoping things will continue to improve.
There are some other notes to working with a blind dog (and in many respects, any dog with a disability). The first one is – DO NOT PITY THEM! They don’t pity themselves, and you’ll only convince them there’s something wrong with them, when they would normally accept life as it is. Sometimes dogs do get quite anxious as their bodies stop working the way they used to, but pitying them will only make that anxiety worse. Think about being a cheerleader instead: be proud of them for their accomplishments, and praise them enthusiastically while supporting and helping where you need to.
The second note is – they will probably need more support and help than another dog! While we were walking with the blind dog, my assistant trainer, Quin, noted that I was much more careful with him than with a seeing dog. It’s true: if a seeing dog falls behind and whumps my leg, I’m probably going to give them a sharp tug to knock it off. But the blind dog couldn’t see what he was doing, so instead I guided him back where he belonged and praised him for it. Quin also noticed that I was “almost protective,” and that, also, is true! It’s my job, if I’m putting him in danger, to keep him safe. That means also keeping him safe from excess anxiety: I need to steer him around bushes, overhanging plants, posts, curbs, puddles, the edge of the sidewalk where it turns into dirt, and so on. Try closing your eyes and having someone lead you — every new thing is startling.
The third note is – there are a lot more commands you can use! His owners told me they’d taught him “curb” at one point, though he’d forgotten it. We’ve gone back to it and he’s already remembering what it means. I also use it going up and down steps, with one “curb” for each step. I also considered using “Feet” to let him know when the ground was about to change and that it was a safe change, as in when he walks over a pile of leaves. I may yet; I’m debating between a command that will help him, versus people forgetting to use it or not noticing and the ground change startling him when the command isn’t used.
Blind dogs, or dogs with disabilities, are also more likely to rush things. Humans freeze up, but often a dog will rush through. The blind dog, for instance, charges down the stairs from the house. In part he does it because he’s eager to go on his walk, but when I was able to slow him down and get him thinking, I noticed that he also has some anxiety around those stairs — he’s getting them over and done with as quickly as possible! As we slowed down, he started to hear my “curb” command, and he slowed down even more and started to relax. I, of course, praised and praised and praised!
A dog with a disability isn’t always a sad thing. My dog, Sam, ended up in a wheelchair for the last year of his life — and it was the happiest year, too! He was a big, intimidating looking dog. When I put him in a wheelchair, people went from avoiding him to cooing over him, and he LOVED it. He would strut quite proudly whenever I put it on, knowing he was about to get the attention he deserved!
Dogs with disabilities need some extra help and new ways of thinking, and it often takes them longer to learn since they’re having to think about so many other things (imagine Anne Frank), but that doesn’t mean they aren’t happy. Take some precautions, learn some new tricks, have patience, and things can be good!
As for the blind dog, I’ll let you know how the bells are working in a few weeks!
Filed under: Uncategorized | Tags: children, dogs that have been rehab'ed, expecations, philosophy, training, training in unusual conditions
I’m going to give you two scenarios:
Scenario 1:
Matrix is a ten-year-old shepherd cross. She lives with 2 children, ages 4 and 2. Matrix doesn’t much like the children: she growls if they get too close, and has even snapped at them for playing near her. Whenever her owners leave the room, they call her with them because she can’t be trusted.
Scenario 2:
Max is a four-year-old terrier cross. He lives with one child, age 2. He loves children, and his child loves him. They play together and adore each other. Max can be trusted with children, and has never shown any aggression toward them, no matter what’s going on.
Which of these scenarios is better?
Matrix’s parents realized they had a problem, and they called me. We taught Matrix to leave when the children walked up to her. Her owners still call her with them when they leave the room, in case a child trips and falls on her, and when friends come over to play she takes a rest in her own room, protected from the children, with her toys and her bed.
Since Max didn’t have any problem with kids, there was no reason to call a trainer. (I do know Max, as he was in training for leash manners, and I saw him around his boy. There was no doubt they loved each other.) When Max’s boy tried to give him a hug one day, Max was trapped, unable to escape, and nearly crushed by a child much larger than he was. In a panic and hurting, he snapped to get away. The boy went to the emergency room, and Max was put down.
Small dogs and dogs in pain are at great risk from children. My dog, Cash, is 110 pounds and loves kids. That said, if one of them lays on him, he’s too big (and too fit and young) to be hurt by it, and he’s big enough to get away. Most dogs don’t have that ability; most dogs are either too small or too old to escape like that. If your child is too young to understand that they need to be gentle and never hang onto a dog that’s trying to leave, then they’re probably too young to be left alone with the dog. What will your dog do when it’s trapped and hurting? Grab your dog’s leg when they’re walking and refuse to let go, or grab them around the neck and lay on them. Whatever they do, imagine if they did that while your child’s face was next to theirs, because your child was giving them a hug.
Most dogs that bite are already aggressive. Once pushed to that point, they’ll bite more easily the next time because they learn that it works. This bit of truth is wrong, though, when small children are involved. A trapped, hurting dog will bite even if they’re not aggressive. Calling your dog out of the room with you takes two extra seconds, and ensures that your child won’t hurt your dog — and can, therefore, save your dog’s life.
I would like to say this doesn’t happen often, but this winter alone I know of two dogs — friendly, sweet, child-loving dogs — who were put down after biting children who hurt them, trying to hug them. Is a hug worth your dog’s life? Please, teach your children to be gentle. Teach them to let go when the dog leaves. And until they’re old enough to remember to do so reliably, call your dog with you when you leave the room. It could mean the world to your family.
Filed under: Uncategorized | Tags: dogs that eat animals, training, training in unusual conditions
Recently, a few of my friends have been introducing their dogs to their significant others’ cats. I’ve done this myself; my two dogs with my girlfriend’s cats, and several clients have needed cat/dog help over the last month.
Tis the season, I suppose?
Whatever the case, let’s talk about cat/dog relations. Here’s my opinion on dogs and cats: No matter what happens, it’s the dog’s fault.
“Now wait a minute!” I hear you cry. “What if my dog’s just trying to play, and hasn’t touched the cat?”
It’s the dog’s fault.
“But my dog didn’t hurt the cat!”
It terrified the cat, even if your dog was only trying to play. It’s the dog’s fault. In fact, if your dog were sleeping, and your cat came up and slapped him in the face, and the dog jumped up which startled the cat, it’s still the dog’s fault.
Here’s the thing: the dog can kill the cat. I heard from someone today whose 30-pound wheaton terrier killed a cat. Even if the dog doesn’t kill the cat, it could severely hurt the cat.
Cats can hurt dogs, too, but it takes a lot more effort, and it doesn’t come naturally to them. Though cats and dogs are both hunters, generations have gone into dogs to make them hunt things the size of cats (and bigger), and generations have gone into cats to make them run from hunters that are bigger than them — which will trigger a dog into chasing them.
What does this mean? It means a dog’s instinct will tell it to chase and play with a cat that runs — and most cats run. When dogs play, it’s essentially hunting (and that’s assuming your dog won’t activelly hunt the cat). Whether or not your dog is being aggressive, your cat is going to be terrified. Cats don’t read dog body language, it isn’t going to look at the dog and think, “Hey, it’s just playing.” It’s going to look at the dog and say, “Hey, this animal is trying to eat me!” whether or not that’s the case. Do you really want your cat feeling that it’s life is in danger?
Further, how do you override the dog’s instinct to chase when the cat runs? It depends, in part, on the dog (and the breed). For instance, my pit bull Lily spent her puppyhood being bullied by a cat; she avoids them naturally, and I only have to encourage that. My king shepherd Cash takes a bit more careful management, but knowing his bloodlines helps: king shepherds are a mix of German shepherds (a shepherding and guard breed), malamutes (which are hunters) and great Pyrenees (herd protectors). Mostly protective bloodlines, but that malamute means that, as much of a wussy baby as Cash is, I make sure that if he gets interested in the cats, I step in.
Now, in general I have a few tips for cat/dog relations.
First, I always recommend introducing dogs to cats on leash. If my dog so much as looks at the cat, even just glancing, I give them a sharp tug. When they look away from the cat, I pet them calmly and tell them they’re good.
This is basically it; I reward the dogs only when they’re ignoring the cats, and they get in trouble when they so much as look at the cats. At some point, you’ll be introducing your dogs off leash; they already have to be so aware to be careful with the cat that if the cat leaps and dashes, we can call the dog off just by expressing unhappiness — and then I’d chase the dog right out of the room to express more unhappiness.
I want my dogs feeling that the cats are the ULTIMATE gods in the household; animals that dogs are wary of are less likely to be hunted.
If you don’t want to supervise your dogs for hours, or they aren’t hunting breeds, another option is to keep the dogs caged/crated to give the cats time to sniff and check out the dogs safely. I’d give the cats several hours, preferably all day (or night), and then I’d still keep the dogs on leash when they first come out, so the cats don’t get scared off right away. Cats that are comfortable around the dogs are less likely to run, which means they’re less likely to be chased.
I’m a dog person through and through, but even I know that my dogs, my darlings, my sweeties, my super fluffy adorable peaceful puppies, are hunters at the root of their nature, and I want my girlfriend’s cats to feel safe. As safe as my dogs do!
J
Filed under: Uncategorized | Tags: fireworks, holiday training, sirens, training, training in unusual conditions
Occasionally, I get someone asking me what to do about fireworks or sirens. Here’s the problem: it’s hard to train for fireworks or sirens, because they don’t happen very often! Around this time of year, clients often ask me for some advice to get them through the Fourth of July fireworks display. Here is some of the advice I often give, and the way I personally help my dogs:
1. Wear them out! Taking your dogs for a long — and I mean long — walk beforehand, or let them play at the dog park,or take them to a dog-friendly beach all will help them to be nice and tired, and therefore care a lot less when the fireworks start.
2. Essential oils. I’ve found that, occasionally, for minor anxiety essential oils (or benedryl, which makes them drowsy!) can help. I recommend a tiny dab on the bottoms of their paws or the insides of their ears. “Peace and Calming” or lavender oils work best. But I do mean a tiny dab, and if you have a small dog put it on their fur rather than on the skin. Oils can be very strong stuff!
3. Positive reinforcement. This is one area where I really like treat training! When you start hearing fireworks, ask your dog to sit, lay down, shake paws — whatever will distract him, and then give him treats and love for ignoring the fireworks to do as you ask. When the fireworks have been going off for fifteen minutes and your dog is used to them being no big deal, you can relax and enjoy the show. If your dog starts getting worked up, distract him again.
4. Correction. Neither of my dogs are worried about fireworks in the slightest. As puppies I first distracted them as above, did some work on laying and sitting and staying, gave them treats and told them they were good. Then, if we relaxed and they started to worry, I’d tell them, “Oh, stop. Lay down and don’t be goofy.” This kind of attitude — the, “there’s nothing wrong, stop being silly” attitude — will often tell a dog that you aren’t worried, and they shouldn’t be, either.
5. Firm Correction. For dogs with more severe mania around fireworks, I put them on their training collars and when they start to bark or get distressed, I give them a pop to tell them to knock off the bad behavior (continuing firmly until they take a quick break and I can see they’re thinking — momentarily — again), then I’ll ask them to lay down so that I can praise them for doing something well. This combination of correcting for mania and praising for focus often works.
6. Denning them. For dogs who are very anxious about fireworks, make sure they have a safe place to go, preferably deep in your house where the noise and lights will be muffled. If your dog is crate trained, this is a good time to put them in their nice, safe crate where the scary fireworks can’t get them!
All of these also work for sirens. Added to that, however, if the sirens are nearby — like going down the street while I’m standing on the sidewalk! — I often cover my dog’s ear closest to the sirens. It probably doesn’t help at all, but it makes me feel better!
For very severe fear of fireworks, contact a dog trainer you trust. Getting your dog to a point where they’ll listen when in the throes of great stress takes some time and work, but can be done. The basics are often what I’ve outlined, but small changes for each dog can make a big difference in whether or not it works!
Happy Fourth of July!
Jenna